ATM, Not Your Average Cash Machine

When we dreamed of having an adventure, this is the kind of thing we had in mind. After leaving Flores, we headed across the Belizean border into the quaint little town of San Ignacio, where we stayed for two nights, and decided we were up for a challenge. Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM for short) is a gigantic cave about an hour away from San Ignacio. We were informed that if there was one thing we should not miss in Belize, this was it. It is a virtual Mayan shrine; the Vatican of the Mayan world. All kinds of religious ceremonies, sacrifices, and burials were performed here. How could we not go after learning that? Reade was especially enchanted with the promise that we would see very old human bones. So we showed up in the morning in anticipation of the day ahead knowing little else than that there would be both hiking and swimming involved, and that a high level of fitness would be required of us.

After a very bumpy drive with about 15 other people through the back country of Belize, we reached our desination. Our guides informed us that we would be hiking for about 45 minutes through the jungle to the cave we hoped to explore, and that we would be crossing three streams in the process. Would there be time to take off our sneakers before jumping in? Oh no. You just traipse right through the streams and continue the hike, only with very wet feet. It sounds worse than it is. So off we went into the wild blue yonder with periodic stops by the guides to illuminate some of the flora and fauna of the jungle.



We eventually reached a picnic area, quickly ate our lunches, and prepared for the next leg of the trip. We were told to leave everything behind since the very first part of the cave requires you jumping into a great pool of water (which we discovered was VERY cold), and we would remain sopping wet for the remainder of the day. If this wasn't exciting enough, they provided each one of us with a very fashionable (meaning bright red and smelly) helmet with a light attached to the top (also the picture of quintessential fashion). I mean, this is serious stuff.

The next leg of the trip was spent sloshing and sometimes swimming through the water flowing freely through the cave, as well as climbing over, under, and through the rock formations all throughout the cave. Some of the formations were absolutely majestic, some imposing, and all created over more than a thousand years' time. To complete the picture, there were dark holes all along the ceiling of the cave created by the urine of the numerous bats who hang upside down, dangling eerily above our heads. About a half mile into the cave, we came to a set of very large rocks. Once we carefully pulled ourselves up and over the rocks, we were relieved for a time of the constant barrage of cold water whose current seemed always to be running against us. At this point, our guide made us take our sneakers off, leaving only our dripping, wet socks between our pruny feet and the ruins we were about to encounter. This is how they ensure you don't step too hard on anything valuable. It is also very crunchy on the feet.





This is one of the bigger stalagtites we were able to photograph, but there were many more that were much bigger.












One of the coolest artifacts we saw.









This particular part of the cave is the main site for exploring many of the Mayan artifacts that were made and lugged all the way into the cave on foot by way of torch. It is really pretty amazing. But even cooler than that were the skeletal remains from hundreds and hundreds of years ago still preserved and visible to the naked eye. Creepy? A little. Especially since it is believed that these particular victims were sacrificed. Bummer.


The way back went much more quickly without any explanations from our guides. As we rode home soggy and content, we thought about how much we had learned and experienced in one day. What a sense of awe and respect we were filled with as realized how vast and exciting God's creation is. There's so much to discover, and we have only just begun.